What Rules? The Changing Face of Australian Production
May 2016
The Australian wine landscape is changing. The last few years have seen a wave of young, experimental winemakers embracing international (and often overlooked) varietals and creating fresh, intriguing expressions in some unexpected regions.
The passionate spirits behind names like Ochota Barrels, Jauma and Brash Higgins exemplify this movement towards transformative winemaking – toying with carbonic maceration, skin contact, amphora-ferment and swinging between minimum to maximum-intervention techniques in order to produce wines that are not only unexpected in flavour, texture and weight, but set out to redefine typical expressions of the varietals. (Anyone that has tasted the ethereal ‘Botanicals’ by Ochota Barrels has felt the boundaries of traditional winemaking being pushed firsthand, and the results have been as delightful as they have refreshing in their novelty).
One particular winemaking duo that can’t seem to escape the limelight recently, and certainly embody the ‘new wave’ of experimental winemaking, are Brendan and Laura Carter of Unico Zelo wines – and now, being met with much anticipation, Applewood Distillery.
The pair, both in their mid twenties, are as lively as their wines and the passion with which they describe their processes is truly reflected in the glass. We gathered in the ever-chic Maker Bar for a tantalizing introduction to the Applewood products, which together are a thrilling preview of the direction Australian distilleries are moving in.
the always-atmospheric Maker Bar
The Applewood Gin is both punchy and delicate, deriving its layered palate from over 35 botanicals. As he lists the primary botanicals, Brendan reveals his background as a perfume-maker as a primary influence on the daring, yet balanced flavour combinations. His passion for synthesizing flavour beams from his face, lightly freckled from vineyard sun, as we joke about lab-bottling a ’59 Petrus. Heavy citrus (lemon, orange, blood orange, lime) provide a zippy acid line that is softened, intriguingly, with lavender and earl grey. The gin is wonderfully textural, balanced and perfumed.
Next we look at the Applewood Limoncello, softer and rounder than its Italian counterpart, and dangerously drinkable. Perhaps the most ground-breaking of the Applewood lineup are the Økar and Red Økar, which step up as the bold Australian siblings of Aperol and Campari. Deriving their vibrant red hue from Riberry (otherwise known as lilly pilly or cherry alder), a coastal rainforest tree native to Australia, the two spirits are lively and complex examples of what happens when intrepid craftspeople set out to recreate a classic and (in my opinion) trump the original.
Økar Spritz with dried citrus and lemon myrtle leaf
The Økar has a dazzling colour – somewhere between peach and raspberry – and is delightfully cloudy (all of the Applewood spirits are unfiltered). The palate is lively and citrus-driven, the finish smooth and slightly sweet. Cloves and star anise bring intrigue to this ultra-approachable aperitif. We’re served an Økar Spritz and the Økar stands in effortlessly in Aperol’s place. The Red Økar, predictably, is a darker and broodier rendition. There is a balanced bitterness that reminds me of Amaro Averna and brings welcome complexity. Notes of cassia bark, licorice root and, funnily enough, Coca-Cola confectionary are among the consensus. The Red Økar is wonderfully dense, concentrated and deserves to be sipped slowly.
The duo are making some seriously cool stuff, blending and sourcing local botanicals and experimenting with techniques – a Chai Gin (yes, you read correctly) utilizes the ‘Torpedo’ technique developed by the brewers at Sierra Nevada, whereby their base gin is blasted at high power through a device packed full of chai spice in order to infuse as much flavour as possible.
One of the ways Brendan and Laura exemplify the growing Zeitgeist that pushes the boundaries of traditional production is in their approach to sourcing, for both Applewood and Unico Zelo. Not only are all of their botanicals as locally sourced as possible, they are strengthening relationships with local farmers to ensure minimal wastage and maximum sustainability. Brendan relates how the fruit that formed the base of their cherry gin (perfumed, lively and very sippable) was the excess from a local farmer that would otherwise be wasted. They’re also strong advocates of the ‘Australian filter’ – minimal to zero irrigation, and minimal to zero acidification.
Applewood are creating outstanding products that lend themselves equally to slow sipping and mixing.
The boys at Maker are fantastic, as always – Ed treats us to an (almost) all-Australian Negroni on Red Økar, Mezcal, house-made sweet vermouth and a spray of Octomore. It was smoky and textured without losing the refreshing acidity that underpins the Red Økar. Nick shakes a perfect gin sour (on Applewood, of course) that was lifted with a sprinkling of strawberry gum (finely ground eucalyptus leaf, one of thousands of varieties).
an (almost) all-Australian negroni
Once the spirits had been thoroughly examined (and enjoyed) we made our way to Gauge to delve into the new releases from Unico Zelo. The pair employ equal creativity and zeal in the production of their wines, which all seem to share the same liveliness. We kick off the whites with the Chopsticks, a quirky blend of Muscat d’Alexandria, Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Grigio and a touch of Fiano that have undergone various levels of treatment, from oxidative handling to flor inoculation. The end result is an intriguing, textured wine with an umami finish that makes it extremely versatile. It lends itself especially to Asian cuisines, with enough body to hold its own against a considerable degree of spice – and it’s a personal favourite of mine for that reason. Although it’s not technically part of the 2016 summer release, if you can still get your hands on a bottle (or three), it’s well worth a try.
Next we check out the Alluvium Fiano, a lemon-warhead of a wine that is well balanced by its waxy phenolics and white peach aromatics. The wine is acid-driven from relatively early picking and minimal skin contact, and derives its structure from the alluvial quartz-clay soils of the Kersbrook vineyard. The Fiano is clean and driven, and pairs well with the starters we’ve been sharing: the red claw yabbies with olive oil and shellfish emulsion are perfectly prepared, the emulsion rich and smoky, but the blood tacos with bone marrow, mushroom and native thyme remain the standout.
duck, beetroot, strawberry, rye
Central to the Unico Zelo winemaking ethos is accessibility – they endeavor to grow varietals that are hardy and well-suited to the terroir, and from them create wines that are as enjoyable to professionals and punters alike. This is perfectly exemplified by the Truffle Hound Nebbiolo – a vibrant, juicy expression of a varietal typically aggressive in its youth. The Truffle Hound is nothing like the tannic expressions of Piemonte, bringing ample red fruit, body and perfume. With only a four-day maceration period, the Truffle Hound gives a firm nod to the Italian Novello style with licorice spice, supple tannin and a bright, savoury finish. The Dolcetto follows the same formula – plush fruit (plums, cherries), generous palate and silky tannin, tied neatly together with a tight acid line. It also pairs wonderfully with my main – duck breast, beetroot, strawberry and rye. The food at Gauge is considered, well-presented and elevates the tasting experience. The remainder of the new releases are equally intriguing, and include a terracotta-fermented Fiano, two Nero d’Avolas and two Nebbiolos from a range of vineyards in the wider Adelaide Hills region.
What Brendan and Laura have achieved in their relatively brief stint as Unico Zelo and Applewood is crafting products of true character – from the spirits that derive their unique appeal from atypical Australian botanicals, to the wines that intrigue and delight as bold expressions of both the soils in which they grew and the hands that crafted them. Championing minimal intervention, high sustainability and maximum creativity, Brendan and Laura march gallantly into the new year – and I can’t wait to see what it has in store.
To Brendan and Laura – many thanks for your passion and generosity, and keep the good stuff coming.
To read more about their stellar range, check out Unico Zelo here.